Island Peak climbing is the most popular climbing peak in Nepal. From Dingboche the mountain is seen as an island in a sea of ice. The summit is interesting and attractive with a highly glaciated west face rising from the Lhotse Glacier.The mountain itself is the extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar seperated by a small col. The ridge rising to the south from this point leads to the summit of Island Peak. The extension of this ridge descending south-west is the part of the normal route of ascent and leads to the South Summit. Imja Tse not only provides an enjoyable climb but also provides some of the most spectacular scenery of Himalayas in the Khumbu region. Seen from the summit the giant mountains, Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m) and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) make a semi circle in the north. The views of Makalu (8475m) in the east, Baruntse and Amadablam in the south add more charm for climbing Island Peak.
Sout East Flank & South-West Ridge
Normally, the base camp is set at Pareshaya Gyab (5,087m), between Imja Tse and the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier. It should not be forgotten that the place is more likely for avalanche in the event of heavy snow fall. From the base camp, a well acclimatized party in good conditions can make the summit and return to the base camp in a day. However, most of the climbers prefer establisheing a High-Camp which helps a safe ascent. From the base camp the route skirts south east around and base of Imja Tse and climbs steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. We scramble up on open gully which leads between two ridges to the site of high camp on the left-hand ridge below and to the right of a small hanging glacier (5,280m). From the high camp, the left hand ridge scramble across the broad open gully. After crossing a gully a steep snow and ice ramp leads upward for nearly 100 meters to the summit ridge. Climbing near the summit is a little difficult due to steep climbing. In recent times the snow slopes below the summit has developed some large crevasses making the final ascent to the top difficult.
North Ridge Route
First ascent was in 1958 by Alf Gregory, Dick Cook and two Sherpas. North of the main summit the ridge continues to a col (5,700m). The route climbs the ridge from the col, which is reached by following the true right bank of the Imja Glacier and later the moraines on the right bank of the Lhotse Sar Glacier, before climbing north-west over snowy slopes to the col. On the first ascent, a camp was placed on the col. From the col, follow the ridge which is a magnificient snow arete, due south. This steepens for the final summit pyramid. This a long ridge that would be difficult under soft snow conditions and may under other contiditions have a marked cornice. The climb is a little more difficult than the normal route, and is graded alpine PD+.
Day 01: Kathmandu:
Upon your arrival in Kathmandu, Mosaic adventure will officially greet and meet you at Airport & transfer you to star hotel or similar category hotel. You will have leisure time, followed by an evening welcome dinner at a typical Nepalese Restaurant. Overnight in Kathmandu (1,000m/3,280ft).
Day 02: Sightseeing or free day:
After having breakfast in Kathmandu, you will prepare for a guided tour of the amazing sights in the Kathmandu Valley. You can visit Durbar Square, Swayambhunath (Monkey) Temple, the famous Hindu temple (Pashupatinath) and the largest Stupa in Nepal ( Boudha).
Day 03: Katmandu-Lukla-Phakding: 35 min flight; 3-4 hours trek:
Early morning flight by small twin otter to Lukla (2,800m/9,186ft). After final preparations, the trekking starts passing Chaurikharka village, and makes a descent towards the Dudhkosi Ghat (2,530m/8,300ft). The trail follows the precise bank of the Dudhkosi River until camp at Phakding (2,652m/8,700ft) is reached. This first day is short for acclimatization reasons.
Day 04: Phakding-Namche Bazaar: 5-6 hours:
The trail cross Dudhkoshi River through a long suspension bridge then trail leads you crossing side by side along the river to Hilary's Suspension Bridge.The trail further climbs from here to Namche Bazaar. Overnight in Namche Bazaar (3,440m/11,286ft).
Day 05: Namche Bazaar: rest:
This is the first of the two specific acclimatization days. You can spend the day taking a day walk hike to Thame, by visiting Khunde or by relaxing and exploring Namche Bazaar; the main centre in the Khumbu region and has shops, restaurants, a bakery, hotel with hot showers and electric power. There is a colorful market each Saturday.
Day 06: Trek to Tengboche Monastery: 5 hours:
We trek to an altitude of 3860 meters today. On reaching Tengboche your guide will tell you about the local monastery situated here. The group will be taken to observe a prayer ceremony either in the evening or morning depending on how the days trekking went. Overnight at guesthouse (3860 meters).
Day 07- Trek to Dingboche: 5.30 hours:
From Thyangboche the trail drops to Debuche, crosses another exciting suspension bridge on the Imja Khola, and climbs to Pangboche amongst thousands of mani stones. Our uphill trek continues, taking us to the quaint traditional Sherpa village of Dingboche with its exquisite views of Lhotse, Island Peak, and Ama Dablam. We take our time so we avoid getting affected by the altitude. Overnight at Guesthouse (4350 meters).
Day 08- Trek to Chhukung 4 hours:
From here we have a short walking day as it is very important to avoid getting affected by the thinning of the air and get acclimatization to climb Island peak. Our guide will give important and useful information about the situation on climbing Island peak and about next day’s activities. Overnight at guesthouse (4710 meters).
Day 09- Trek to Island peak base camp: 4 hours:
The path from Chhukung leads fairly steep way climbing south then turning east to the main line of the valley. It then winds along or below the southern flank of the moraine from the Lhotse Glacier. Continue short pleasant walking along a streamside leads to what we call Big-rock. The route to the Amphu Lapcha lies to the southeast. A crisis cross route through the Imja and Lhotse glacier moraines leads to a wide valley flanking the SW side of Island peak. Over night in Island Peak Base Camp (5,200m/17,060ft).
Day 10- Rest and Acclimatization day:
We will spend a day here in order to acclimatize and adjust to the thinning of the air. As well as a short trek around base camp to pre-pare us for the 6000 meter adventure the next morning. Overnight at Tented camp.
Day 11-Island Peak Base Camp to High Camp: 2-3 hours:
You will have move to Island Peak high camp, from where you will climb the mountain. The path leads up beyond base camp for several hundred meters before striking off left up the steep hillside. Initially sandy, the path soon turns to grass before becoming boulder strewn. As you climb the hill, you will see that the slope narrows and the path enter a steep rock channel. Overnight in Island Peak High Camp (5,600m/18,372ft).
Day 12- Summit to Island peak (6187meters) and return to Chhukung (4750meters):
Island Peak Ascent (6,189m/20,305ft), from early in the morning will have to climb the rock gully. This is not difficult but there are several short rock steps to climb before you emerge on the right side of the gully. The route then follows a ridgeline, which leads to an exhilarating and exposed traverse onto the snout of the summit glacier. You will need to rope up for the glacier as it contains several crevasses but it leads without difficulty, to a 100m(330ft) snow and ice slope (40-45°) on which the guides will fix a rope. From the top of this slope, 3 rope lengths along a sharp summit ridge lead to the top. After enjoying the summit views you will descend all the way to Chhukung for overnight.
Today is our main adventure day, we start early in the morning to climb Island peak but it all depends on the weather. After camp 1, we go up in the gully, traverse to the right, up on a wide stone field, cross the ridge to the glacier and crevasses. After a safe trip to the top we safely make our way down then same day back to Chukung. Overnight at guesthouse.
Day 13- Trek to Tengboche. 6 hours:
The trail makes a gradual descent through scrub junipers and around Mani stones as it follows the hillside. The trail passes many Mani walls in deep rhododendron forests where crossing after the Imja khola, the trail climbs many carved Mani stones to Pangboche. Pangboche Gompa is the oldest in Khumbu; a visit will be well worth. Walk down to the valley from where the trail is shallower through alpine meadows. Followed by climb gradually up to Tengboche (3,870m/12,697ft) where the biggest monastery lies in the whole of Khumbu.
Day 14- Trek to Namche Bazaar. 5 hours:
Walk down from the rear of monastery and continue down until you reach Phunki Tenga. Climb up gradually through a forest. Once you are out of the forest, you will be walking along a ridge from where you can see down on your left some of the deepest gorges of Nepal. In spring, the rhododendrons will look superb making the valley even more beautiful. Reach Namche Bazaar (3,440m/11,286ft), for overnight.
Day 15- Trek to Lukla (2804meters) 6 hours:
Trek back to Lukla along the same trail, although it always looks different coming from the opposite direction on arrival in Lukla you will have time to relax and celebrate the completion of your trek. You can have a good time with two local alcoholic beverages 'Chang' or 'Rakshi.' Feel free to dance with your crewmembers in the Sherpa way.
Day 16- Morning flight to Kathmandu from Lukla:
Enjoying your last glimpse of the mountains you have recently visited for one last time on the 35 minute Scenic flight back to Kathmandu. On arrival in Kathmandu we are met and transferred back to our starting hotel. Overnight at hotel.
Day 17- Leisure day in Kathmandu:
It's also spare day in case of bad weather in Lukla.
Day 18-Extend your holiday or back to home:
After this amazing trekking and climbing if you are more interested in continuing for other activities like Chitwan Jungle Safari, River Rafting Adventure, Kathmandu Shopping Tour or Scenic Everest Flight, cycling, and trekking in other areas or more; Mosaic Adventure Treks & Expedition can organize as your desire. If you decide to leave Nepal we will transfer to airport for your onward destination.
Departure dates and itinerary arrangements can be custom-tailored to your needs, so please contact us with your inquiries regarding your Island Peak Climbing departure date.
1. Airport / Hotel / Airport pick up & drop by private car / van / bus.
2. Standard twin sharing accommodation in star hotel in Kathmandu with breakfast.
3. Guided city tour in Kathmandu by private car / van / bus.
4. Sightseeing/Monument entrance fees.
5. All your standard meals as per itinerary during the trek and climbing. Such as breakfast, lunch and dinners).
6. All hot drinks as per itinerary such as tea, coffee (3 times a day) during the trek.
7. Tea Houses / Lodges, Guesthouses and Tented accommodation during the trek & Climbing.
8. A government licensed English speaking Guide during the trek and climb.
9. The required number of staff and Porters to carry your luggage during the trek.
10. Food, accommodation, salary, insurance, equipment, medicine for all staff.
11. Everest National Park permits.
12. Island Peak Permit fees.
13. Garbage Deposit Fee.
14. General Climbing equipment such as Rope, Ice Screw, Snow Bar etc.
15. Down jacket, 4 seasonal sleeping bags by Mosaic Adventure (which needs to be returned after the trek.)
16. Mosaic adventure duffel/kit bag, exclusive medical kit bag and T-shirt (yours to keep).
17. Airfare from Kathmandu – Lukla - Kathmandu including airport departure tax in Kathmandu and Lukla airport.
18. Surface transfer from and to Kathmandu.
19. Travel & Rescue arrangements.
20. All our government taxes.
21. Official expense.
1. Lunch and dinner whilst in cities.
2. Travel & rescue insurance (compulsory).
3. Excess baggage charges.
4. Items of a personal nature such as alcoholic drinks, cold drinks, laundry & hot shower.
5. Personal trekking and mountaineering gears.
6. Tips for trekking staff and driver. (Tipping is expected).
7. Any others expenses which are not mentioned on Price Includes section.
8. Nepal entry visa, you can obtain a visa easily upon your arrival at TIA in Kathmandu.
(US$ 25 or equivalent foreign currency is required to obtain Tourist Visa with Multiple Entry for 15 days. Likewise, Tourist Visa with Multiple Entry for 30 days can be obtained by paying US $ 40 or equivalent foreign currency. Similarly, Tourist Visa with Multiple Entry for 90 days can be obtained by paying US $ 100. You will also require 2 passport size photos.)
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