Ama Dablam, one of the most stunning mountains in the Himalaya and one of the most impressive & favorite mountains in the world is situated in the heart of Khumbu region. Mt Ama Dablam lies directly above Thyangboche Monastery on the well-worn path to Everest Base Camp and is admired by thousands of trekkers and climbers. Offering superb, technical climbing experience in magnificent setting, Ama Dablam Expedition let you enjoy abundant cultural and charming diversions.
The expedition is not a "guided" ascent. It will be a professionally led team of competent mountaineers who have enough experience to climb one of the world's most sought after mountains without undue risk. This approach ensures that team members are suitably experienced, reasonably self-sufficient and capable and willing to move between camps unsupervised. You will still have a high level of support, starting with strong, confident leadership; this will maximize your chances of success without undermining the quality of your achievement.
Amadablam expedition besides offering the panoramic view of four of the world’s highest Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Makalu & Everest peak, justifies the highest level of climbing artistry.
Amadablam expeditions need to have good skills on rock and ice climbing and technically competent. On most parts of the routes there will be fixed rope, however, the climbers should posses skills to climb through steep rock and hard water ice. If you have the necessary experience and wish to participate fully as a team member of an expertly led expedition to one of the world's most impressive mountains, this could be the trip for you!
Our route will be by the original line of ascent, the South West Ridge. This gives a fine and varied climb, sustained at a reasonable level of difficulty and with good camp platforms at strategic points. The climbing provides interest on rock, snow and ice and although of a fairly technical nature, in normal conditions it is never very difficult. Apart from one short section, the climb is objectively very safe.
A descriptive route of Amadablam from South West Ridge is as below:
From base camp c4,450m old grassy moraine ridges are followed roughly eastwards to a broad saddle c5,150m from where we can see the Mingbo La. From the saddle, we ascend easily northwards until the ground steepens at the start of a large boulder field. It is possible to place an Advanced Base Camp at 5,400m below the boulder field. The route continues in a northwards direction around the base of the boulder field, and then follow cairns upwards towards the toe of the SW ridge. Camp 1 should now be visible just below Pt. 5,705m. At the end of the boulder field, slabs are crossed and then a short gully ascended, which allows access to the ridge proper in a very exposed position. Easy scrambling on the east side of the ridge leads quickly to Camp 1 c5,700m. There are four or five tent platforms.
From Camp 1 we contour round the snowy bowl (possible alternative site for Camp 1) until below two rock fingers. The east side of the ridge is followed, climbing easy mixed ground until a short pitch of Severe (5.4) standard leads to the ridge proper. The ridge is narrow in places, turning difficulties on the east side, until the second tension traverse leads to two pitches of Very Severe (5.6) standard. The route continues on the crest of the ridge for a short distance until we are forced via an awkward step onto the west side of the ridge. The crest of the ridge is regained and easy ground followed to the start of a traverse on the east face, which leads to the Yellow Tower. This 15 metre pitch, which is just below Camp II, is one of the hardest pitches on the climb at HVS (5.8) standard. A short section of ridge now leads to Camp II c5,900m. Camp II has very limited tent space (3 or 4 platforms) and is extremely exposed. It is sometimes only used as an equipment dump with expeditions choosing to go from Camp I to Camp III in a single push.
From Camp II, the climb skirts a red rock bluff on the east and after a step down, follows the snow ridge direct to an awkward traverse eastwards which leads to a gully between the Grey Tower and the lower rock buttress. We climb the gully until a very exposed traverse line is reached on the west side of the ridge. A short snow slope is ascended to the start of the Mushroom Ridge. This is followed and typically involves negotiating some steep snow sections, until Camp III c6,300m is reached (since the November 2006 Dablam collapse, this has been sited in a sheltered position, just off the east side of the ridge).
The route climbs the snow and ice slope directly above Camp III and to the right hand side of the Dablam (there can be hard water ice on this section. In 2008, this section was fixed on mixed ground to the right). We continue to skirt the Dablam on the right side and then move westwards to gain a small snowfield below the Burgschrund. The Burgschrund is crossed and then the climb heads directly to the obvious ice crest. This is followed in a magnificent position to the summit.
Day 1: Arrive at Kathmandu.
We arrive in the afternoon and are taken to the Hotel.
Day 2: At leisure in Kathmandu.
Today, we have chance to rest after the flight and to discover the delights of Nepal's capital city. The leader will also take the opportunity to check personal equipment as the city bazaars and climbing shops will provide the last chance to correct any deficiencies.
Day 3: Fly to Lukla.
The 40-minute flight from Kathmandu to Lukla is one of the most spectacular flights in the world. The sixteen-seater Twin Otter takes us east into the heart of Sherpa country, giving us views of the peaks of the Khumbu region, including Everest and Ama Dablam (remember to sit on the left hand side of the plane!). The landing on the tiny airstrip at Lukla is, to put it mildly, exciting.
Soon after landing, we set off along the famous trail to Everest Base Camp. From Lukla 9,184 ft (2,800 m), we walk north-west and descend to the river at Phakding 8,698 ft (2,652 m), where we camp for the night
Day 4: Hike to Namche Bazaar.
Setting off early in the morning, we follow the river before climbing the steep hill to Namche Bazaar. Hopefully, we get our first views of Everest and Lhotse as we approach Namche. We reach the town after about six hours' walking. Namche is the most prosperous and largest settlement in the Khumbu. It is the capital of the Sherpa population, a people who closely resemble the Tibetans in looks and culture. Namche is a vibrant town with many shops and several restaurants and lodges. Superb mountain scenery makes an impressive back-drop.
We are likely to feel breathless from the altitude, as Namche is 11,300 ft (3,445 m) above sea level. To assist acclimatisation we spend two nights here.
Day 5: Rest day at Namche Bazaar.
Team members have the opportunity to look around Namche today and to walk to the Everest View Hotel (c3,900m).
Day 6: Trek to Deboche.
From Namche, the well-worn Everest trail contours around the side of the valley high above the Dudh Kosi. As we follow the path, we will get our first really good views of the great peaks of the Khumbu: Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam. Passing by several villages and numerous tea shops, we will cross the Dudh Kosi river and make a steep climb to Thyangboche, home of an impressive and recently rebuilt monastery. We have plenty of time to look around Thyangboche and have a cake at the bakery before dropping down to the river and the village of Deboche (3,700m/12,135ft) a little further along the trail, where we will stay in a relaxing lodge.
Day 7: Trek to Pheriche (4,300m).
It's 1.5 hours walk further up the trail to the village of Pangboche (4,000m/13,120ft). Pangboche is situated directly below Ama Dablam and many of the Sherpas who work on the mountain each season are from this village. We continue up the trail from Pangboche to Pheriche, where we stay in one of the comfortable lodges there.
Day 8: Acclimatisation above Pheriche.
To assist in our acclimatisation, we can walk up the slope towards Taweche (4,800m) for great views up the Khumbu and Imja Valleys. In the afternoon, there is time for an altitude briefing by the Himalayan Rescue Association.
Day 9: Move to Ama Dablam Base Camp.
We trek back down the trail to the bridge at Pangboche and cross the Dudh Kosi before climbing up the far side of the river and following the trail and ridgeline up to base camp (3.5 hours from Pangboche). Base camp is an idyllic spot from which the majority of the route is visible. At an altitude of about 15,000ft (4,570m) it provides a comfortable escape from the rigours of the climb. Our porters deposit their loads and leave us here for the next 3 weeks, with only our Sirdar, Sherpas and Cook staff remaining.
Day 10-25: Ascent of Ama Dablam.
We do not provide a prescriptive day-to-day itinerary for the climb, as this will be decided by the expedition leader. They will take a flexible approach based on their own experience, previous Jagged Globe expeditions to the mountain and the make-up of the team. Typically, the team will spend a few days at base camp organising food, practicing rope skills and acclimatising before moving above base camp. It is normal to 'tag' or spend at least one night in camp 1 (5,700m) as part of any acclimatisation schedule, before returning to base camp, resting and preparing for a summit push. Please read general info section of this page to know descriptive route.
The team needs to be back at base camp by Day 26. At this point, the porters arrive for our return trek to Lukla.
Day 26-27: Trek to Lukla.
We retrace our steps via Thyangboche, Namche Bazaar and Phakding to arrive back in Lukla ready for the morning flight to Kathmandu.
Day 28: Fly Lukla to Kathmandu.
An exhilarating take-off that you will never forget starts our journey back to Kathmandu and the Summit Hotel.
Day 29: Buffer Day
This is a buffer day in case our Lukla flight is delayed. If we fly out of Lukla on time we have a full day to relax and enjoy the various delights of Kathmandu.
Day 30: Depart Kathmandu.
PLEASE NOTE: Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary, but as this is Adventure Travel in a remote mountain region, we cannot guarantee it. Weather conditions, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns and the health of climbers can all contribute to changes. The Expedition Leader and our local agent will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but an easy going nature will be an asset!
Departure dates and the itinerary arrangements can be tailored to your requirement, so please contact us for your queries regarding your Ama Dablam Expedition departure date.
• Accommodation at our base in Kathmandu
• All road transport by private vehicles.
• All camping facilities and meals during the expedition.
• Porters to carry loads from Lukla-base camp-Lukla
• All costs for leaders, guides and local helpers
• Equipment allowance, daily allowance & insurance for base camp staff ( sirdar, cook, kitchen boy and liaison officer )
• Flights to transfer climbing members, staff, liason officer and cargo of the climbing gear.
• Royalty and peak permit
• Airport arrival and departure
• Bar bills and laundry.
• High altitude food and fuel above base camp.
• Climbing equipment, tents and personal equipment above base camp
• Personal accident insurance and emergency rescue operation
• Tips or Gratitude.
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